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Even while fighting a driving rain with an inadequate cheap umbrella, walking up from the Financial District into the heart of North Beach is pretty damn delightful. Along the way, you pass interesting architecture, the venerable and essential City Lights bookstore, and countless eateries ranging from the sublime to the ridiculous. Daniel Patterson's rigorous and inventive Coi is hidden mere...
I wouldn't say that the Mercury Appetizer Bar wormed its way into my affection, chugging along like the Little Engine That Could. Quite frequently during our rocky three-meal acquaintance I thought of it as the Little Engine That Couldn't: couldn't open on time, or at least at the times stated on its Web site and menu; couldn't make a decent cup o' latte; couldn't serve several of the dishes...
I'm not wholly sold on the idea of small plates as a completely satisfying dining experience, especially when the plates themselves look like dollhouse versions of complicated fancy fare, rather than the straightforward Spanish tapas that inspired the fashion. When there are more than two of you at the table, I find such dishes awkward to share, and frequently I'm not satisfied by the mouthful...
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