This bright, clean strip-mall storefront serves homestyle Peruvian food that's heavy on the potatoes: papas a la huancaina smothered in a yellow chile-cheese sauce; papa rellena, a deep-fried shepherd's pie; lomo saltado, a Chinese-Peruvian stir-fry of beef, tomatoes, onions, and French fries. While there's lime-bright ceviche and braised tripe to be had, the specialty is pollo a la brasa, or rotisserie chicken. Under the skin, dark and grainy from the pureed spices rubbed into it, you'll find meat shiny with juices and saturated with the flavor of roasted garlic.
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