On the sign outside, Sam Oh Jung proclaims itself a tofu house, but the stylish strip-mall bistro is so much more. It's a place for whiling away a winter evening over a goat or seafood junggol (stew), or in summer, slurping up mul naeng myeon, springy buckwheat noodles in an icy beef broth. The panchan range from lightly tart water kimchi to tiny fritters. And for diners who look farther beyond the barbecued meats and tofu stews on the menu, there's sliced pig trotter with spicy shrimp sauce and bo ssam, braised pork and raw oysters that you eat together, wrapped in lettuce leaves.
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