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The charcuterie really is at the center of the place: the thin, ruddy slivers of duck ham that shine like leather jerkins in Rembrandt paintings, the paper-thin slices of cured beef that resemble Italian bresaola, or the salted mutton shoulder. But there is cooking here beyond the charcuterie plate - simple food, butchers' food, strong food, but real food nonetheless, maybe half a dozen dishes listed on a smeary blackboard high above one end of the dining room. And as you might imagine, apart from a rustic, spicy preparation of steamed mussels with seared tomatoes, and the requisite plate of fish, what you get here is meat: a superior, grass-fed, profoundly aged New York strip steak, deeply charred yet wet, blood-sour inside, with a splash of reduced wine. Or a bit of braised pork shoulder plopped onto a bed of whatever bean seems to strike their fancy. Or a ruddy, thick hamburger, also smacked with age, with a glop of melted cheese and a rasher of bacon on a bun baked practically to order. Or a pork chop, a lamb chop or an enormous rib eye for two.
It's deceptively unassuming, this restaurant; just some tables and a kitchen behind a high counter tucked into a slot on Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood. The menu, scrawled on a blackboard at the back of the room and surrounded by lights... More »
OK, lovers of truly weird wines, have I got a doozy for you. A cloudy, funky, Napa Valley partially skin-fermented 100% Semillon. It was described to me by a woman at a wine store as "a beer drinker's... More »
Leading up to this year's Best of L.A. issue (due out Oct. 4), we'll be counting down, in no particular order, 100 of our favorite dishes. 76: Pork Chop at Salt's Cure. I didn't like pork chops as a... More »
What's in a glass of wine? The answer might be surprising. Wine is basically spoiled grape juice. (Whoever first ingested it millennia ago: hat tip.) But these days wine's ingredients can also contai... More »
Over the next week or so, it might be fun to wander into some place for breakfast, look around the room at the heavily bearded men eating pancakes and play "Hipster Guy or L.A. Kings Fan Growing Out H... More »
There's a heady note of philosophy served in the wineglass at Salt's Cure. Along with the restaurant's organically farmed ingredients and nose-to-tail menu is a wine list that reflects the chefs' commitment to organic and local: a wine list composed of almost entirely California-made, natural wine. Except for one French Champagne, the wines are made from grapes grown without pesticides, often biodynamically, and without a whole lot of manipulation by the winemaker. This back-to-basics... More »
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