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Painted like the inside of a carnival tent in yellow and orange vertical stripes, Sai Jai Thai is the first of a trio of Tenderloin restaurants that have made Larkin Street a destination for Thai food. Some of the best dishes on its menu are the Northeastern ones -- a sweat-inducing papaya salad with pounded blue crab, a tart green-mango salad set on a cloud of crispy fried catfish (yum pla dook foo), and the grilled pork shoulder, so juicy it seems to have sucked in its marinade like a sponge, served either as a salad or over fried rice.
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