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In the shadow of the Kaufman Astoria Studios and a little off the beaten path, S'Agapo is our fave among the Astorian Greeks, recently confirmed by a meal that featured a special of Macedonian-style roast pork-huge gobbets of oink well-marbled with fat and bathed in drippings alive with subtle flavor. Good too was a red snapper done "savori"-rubbed with fresh tomato and braised in a wine-and-citrus marinade. In spite of an excellent grilled octopus, the best starter is a zingy puree of roasted red peppers and garlic that goes great on the crusty bread.
Among the dozens of Hellenic boîtes in Astoria, I keep going back to S'Agapo, and not just because it's near the Museum of the Moving Image, either. Grok the fresh whole fish in the glass display case, then try to decide between a whole grilled fish (get it done "savouri"--rubbed with tomato and cooked in wine and lemon) or one of the meatier entrées like Macedonian pork. More »
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