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This fascinating institution started out three decades ago as a soccer clubhouse, but with a ground-floor meeting room and bar (where old men play whist and drink brandy) and basement restaurant, which has been opened to the public. The menu runs to the skinless sausages called cevapcici, and fuzi, an envelope-shaped homemade pasta enveloped in a wan veal sauce with plenty of chunky meat. The large dining room is outfitted with gorgeous color photos of hilltop towns in Istria, the peninsula that descends into the Adriatic just east of Trieste, Italy. Don't miss the whole fish festooned with a pungent parsley sauce, or the Nutella stuffed crepes for dessert.
Istria is currently part of Croatia, but it has also been part of Italy in the past, bouncing back and forth like an Adriatic beach ball. The best Istrian food in town is found at Rudar Soccer Club, a sports bar founded by immigrant Istrian miners with a soccer team. Troop through the bar, where old men play whist, to reach the downstairs dining room, prettily decorated with checked curtains. Sample the cevapcici (skinless lamb sausage), gnocchi (spelled ("njoki") with veal sauce, and... More »
The 12th monthly meeting of the Wet Towel Club was about to commence. The dining group had been named spontaneously at the first gathering, when a member looked down at the table after a meal in a Chinese restaurant and spied one of those... More »
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