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A small, warm space adorned with traditional paintings and wall hangings, Roti celebrates Indian cooking exuberantly. Gingery and spreadable, the eggplant bharta makes believers of even eggplant's staunchest opponents. The prawn vindaloo is full of firm, juicy specimens, yet the sauce—supposedly a "thick onion-tomato gravy"—is a letdown. Luckily, Roti's mattar paneer performs like a thoroughbred. The tofu-like Indian "cottage cheese" bathes in a complex red sauce seasoned with most of the spices in the Indian pantry. It's comfort food par excellence.
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