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Miami New Times
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Really good, really Mexican Mexican food is as common in South Florida as snowstorms on Ocean Drive, which is why this modest little eatery just off Krome Avenue in Florida City is worth getting in your car and enduring the inevitable turnpike Sturm und Drang. No ambiance to speak of, but the food is freshly made and tastes of fresh ingredients, a big change from many local Mexican eateries, where the most important piece of kitchen equipment is the can opener. Shrimp with potatoes, carrots, and peppers in a mild ranchero sauce makes a hearty entrée, as does roasted chicken with a surprisingly complex, sophisticated mole sauce. Chimichangas, enchiladas, and the ubiquitous tacos are better than average too. Puffy, greaseless chilies rellenos are superb.
Consider the taco an element, like boron or lead or molybdenum. Beans, cheese, lettuce, guacamole, sour cream -- such abominations correspond to a taco about as much as wasabi beurre blanc does. A soft corn tortilla, meat -- lots of it, gum-tender, and highly seasoned -- and a dollop of salsa, preferably one with a kick to it, are all that compose a proper taco. And Rosita's turns out proper tacos. You can get three of them -- shredded beef (the best), chicken, and chorizo and potato -- plus... More »
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