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The iconic Dallas restaurant-the one made famous by Dean Fearing and his Southwestern duds-was cast adrift during (and especially after) chef John Tesar's brief tenure. But newcomer Bruno Davaillon has resurrected the grand old place through an infusion of fresh, local ingredients and French-honed technique. The shrimp cocktail is a revelation, using horseradish infused panna cotta and an intense tomato reduction to lift cocktail sauce to a new level, part whimsical, part ethereal. Colorado rack of lamb is supple and clean in flavor. Even when the chef lowers himself to cook good old Southern grits, they are organic and cooked ever so slowly until they emerge as airy, memorable polenta-like cakes.
Everyone knows that in a nice restaurant, special etiquette must be practiced. Carefully following the rules of decorum reserved for fine dining is what separates The Fancys from The Normals. The trou... More »
Last night the James Beard Foundation presented its coveted awards for best chef. Chef Bruno Davaillon of Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek was a finalist for Best Chef Southwest Region, along with Bru... More »
A comment in my story a while back about phone stacking caught my attention. "In Japan they have 'No Phone Areas' in restaurants, bars and even the subway," Wagner Gui Tronolone wrote. "I think it's a... More »
"I'll have the omelet please, and black coffee," I told my waiter. I was researching Dallas' best breakfasts and hoped a luxury hotel version from the Mansion on Turtle Creek would make the cut. My wa... More »
In its continuing effort to transition from a respected financial magazine to a full-time generator of mostly half-assed lists, Forbes released yet another list today, this time of America's four- and... More »
Ideal place to treat yourself to a night dining and dancing. Whether you go for a cocktail at the bar or indulge in a full four course meal you will not be disappointed with this classic Dallas landmark.
Because it's The Mansion. What? You were gonna say something else? Let's hear it then. Didn't think so. Next. More »
New Mansion chef John Tesar is the dark horse on the Dallas dining terrain, the diamond in the rough. This outsider could not compete with or build upon the traditions that unfolded from The Mansion through the decades under the Lucchese-booted Dean Fearing. So, he wisely chose to focus on foodstuff and flavor with laser precision as the restaurant received a much-needed multimillion-dollar makeover. Its dusty, cobwebbed Southwestern appointments have largely disappeared, though Mansion... More »
Ultimately, the purpose of an appetizer is to whet, to arouse, to salivate. It's to kick-start the innards and make them receptive to the more weighty compositions to follow. Mansion Chef John Tesar's crab "scampi style" does this. Six ounces of king crab leg meat is torn from the shell in ropes, flecked with parsley and set in a pool of Riesling butter sauce with touches of garlic and shallot. Riesling creeps to the forefront, launching a fascinating interplay of focused minerality and... More »
The clubby, old school decor, the sophisticated tunes from the piano player, and the, um, of-a-certain-age crowd, demand that you order something other than "another cold one" or a Run, Jump, Skip, and Go Nekkid. Generous pours of first-rate bourbon in elegantly muscular glasses with the perfect amount of vermouth and one cherry, mmm...it just doesn't get much more tasteful than that. But don't try tying the cherry stem with your tongue and still expect to get laid. More »
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