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In the rushed kitchen, Genoese cuisine has mainly made way for tourist-pleasers, but some dishes remain stellar -- the cioppino is among the best in town, and desserts are sybaritic delights.
Esquire food critic Roy Andries de Groot called cioppino "the finest regional dish in America," and anyone who's tasted San Francisco's signature specialty would be hard pressed to disagree. It originated back in Gold Rush times when immigrant Italian fishermen cooked up this local version of the seafood stews they loved -- cacciucco, brodetto, ciupin (hence the name) -- retaining the Mediterranean's indispensable contributions of onion, garlic, saffron, tomato, olive oil, and wine. The best... More »
Black Eye for Black Cat Reed Hearon's troubled North Beach spot, the Black Cat, would like to keep this quiet, but according to a police incident report obtained by Side Dish, the restaurant's former general manager Shannon O'Brien is alleged to... More »
Rose Pistola 532 Columbus (at Green), 399-0499. Open 11:30 a.m. to midnight weekdays, to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Reservations for dinner strongly recommended. Wheelchair accessible. Parking: valet $10, or city garage at Vallejo and... More »
"I don't think of North Beach as having new restaurants," my lawyer friend said as, having entrusted the car to the valet, we stepped into Rose Pistola, Reed Hearon's new North Beach restaurant. "No," I managed to agree. I was still trembling... More »
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