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Even if you stop in and are turned off by the bougie atmosphere, Rose Bakery's doughnuts beckon from behind their immaculate glass cases: bloated, glistening with cholesterol. Bear claws are, predictably, shaped like a cartoonish paw-but what you don't expect is the hint of vanilla accentuating its almond-flavored glaze, holding crunchy, sweet apples; it's like McDonald's legendary baked apple pie hidden inside a glazed. Their original glazed is sticky but never cloying; cinnamon rolls look like a grand vortex of gluttony; apple fritters, gnarled and fragrant, like some Granny Smith fossil. You don't have to worry about freshness here-their day's batch is almost always gone by one.
Maybe it's the Anaheim boy in me, but I always find something reassuring, even comforting, in going to Newport Beach and enjoying a plain ol' doughnut. Not completely plain, of course, but old school: the kind of shiny sugar rush that blue-collar... More »
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