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This theme restaurant not far from the Brooklyn East River waterfront (and maybe aimed at the high-rise condos along Williamsburg’s new Gold Coast) bills itself as a humble Baja-style seafood shack, but then fails in its attempt to emulate that sort of humble institution. Not that there aren’t lots of good things on the menu: We liked the fish taquitos, a raw oyster service of scintillating freshness (indeed, any of the raw bar selections are recommended), and the whole deep-fried sea bass stuffed with slaw. On the other hand, the bacon-wrapped octopus tentacle in a bun billed as an oceangoing hot dog, salad of lobster and watermelon, and cat-foody seafood enchiladas all struck us as awful.
Rosarito Fish Shack is an establishment that, perhaps too cannily, mixes a pair of current trends into one restaurant package. The first is the mania for fish tacos, found on dozens of bistro, gastropub, and margarita-mill menus around town. The... More »
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