The carpaccio appetizer-a large platter caked with carpaccio-is preposterously delightful and, at $11.95, a steal of a meal. Both shaved and chunky, the soft morsels are complemented by zingy lemon and capers, fresh-shaved Parmesan, artichoke hearts, and salad bits. Other Italian platters are excellent, but the carpaccio is like a beef-flavored Listerine strip for the gut.
I should've written this column in the summer, when jolting doses of sour meals counter the oppressive heat. But puckering dishes comfort fall palates too: a plate like ceviche or a lemon tart will liven you from the autumn chill that won't leave... More »
The people? They like the chains. Despite Marx and Engels' admonition to break them, the people say what the hell, let's eat Olive Garden. (Seriously: read it in the Register's Best of Orange County.) But good chain restaurants abound, some of... More »
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