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A tug of war has been waged lately over what constitutes an izakaya, or Japanese pub. These institutions arose back home when the island nation was first opened to the West in the 19th century, and izakayas were inspired by real English pubs that appeared in Tokyo. Because of their Western influences, these institutions have license to embroider on traditional Nipponese cuisine, in addition to presenting English and American dishes with Japanese twists. Thus the fried chicken at Rockmeisha comes topped with tartar sauce, and a version of Buffalo chicken wings is offered (skip it). The raw fish dishes, however, are superb, and what drew us to this place originally was a report in a Japanese food blog that the ramen noodles (made with a pig-foot broth) were some of the best in town. They are.
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When a fellow noodle fancier sent me the city's ramen rankings according to the obsessive website rameniac.com, I was incredulous. Not because I disagreed with the list (though putting the East Village's Minca at No. 3 did seem like a bit of a... More »
Humble ramen has attained total celebratory status in the past year, and, truth be told, there's no noodle we'd prefer to suck noisily up. Gone are the cut-rate packets of dried noodles you once scarfed from the bodega at college, and now, restaurants command a premium for this pasta, which had its origins in the lo meins of southern China. Chang has done wonders with it, and we adore the bizarrely expensive Ippudo, but the noodles we dream about are found at Rockmeisha, a hipster izakaya on... More »
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