Description
Rockaway Taco made it safe for certain parts of Brooklyn to come to Queens. And while we have mixed feelings about this -- not to mention the Brooklyn chauvinists who need to be reminded that they're not actually in Brooklyn -- we feel no conflict whatsoever about the virtues of Rockaway Taco's fish taco. It's everything a fish taco should be: The long fingers of fish are lightly battered and deep-fried until they're crunchy, greaseless and sublime; the guacamole is thick, creamy, and plentiful; the crema is tangy and endowed with just enough heat to keep things interesting; and the radishes, cilantro, and red cabbage are crisp, fresh, and a vibrant rejoinder to their unctuous bedfellows. And while the assemblage could use a second layer of tortilla to keep everything together, cleaning up the wreckage is one of the more delectable pursuits to be found on Rockaway Beach. --Rebecca Marx
