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Earthy flavors are prepared and served with grace and imagination at this comely hot spot. Relaxed atmosphere; tantalizing menu. Portobello fritters, smoked duck breast with blini, scallop-lobster boudin, and berry pudding with crème fraîche are especially delectable.
The curmudgeon celebrated his birthday last week with a dozen of his closest friends, and I was the designated restaurant-picker. "Well," I said, "I know a lot of restaurants that annoy the guy." The parameters I had to work within were even... More »
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