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CLOSED Ringo's concept reflects the millennial obsession with choice: a restaurant that supplements its core offerings with a new menu from a different international destination each month: South Korea, Belgium, South Africa, and so on. The global-meets-local concept makes sense from a cover-all-your bases approach, as it accommodates both adventurous and conservative diners. The idea is interesting, ambitious, and a lot to pull off. The space suggests an upscale hotel lobby crossed with a beach cabana, suggesting that this is a voyage for those who stay in five-star hotels, not hostels, and tour via cruise ship and charter bus, not burro and rickshaw. The restaurant's base menu is part American chophouse, part global tour. That means steak, wedge salads, and meatloaf sliders with the former; Peruvian snapper ceviche, Vietnamese pho, and Alsatian chicken with the latter. You may very well luck into a standout--bibimbap with grass-fed beef, Moroccan-style lamb sloppy Joe with Guinness onion rings--but you may also land a flop. As with traveling, the experience tends to be less about consistency than adventure.
These are the days of the shallows, not the deep, in which everybody seems more interested in doing a lot than in doing any of it well. We—the dilettantes, the amateurs, the dabblers—scan instead of read, because we tweet instead of essay. Give a... More »
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