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Humitas, Chilean tamales, are terrific here, sweetly spiced, intensely corn-flavored, with the consistency of a steamed pudding. Pastel de choclo, a pan-Andean favorite, is a sweet, nutmeg-laced corn pudding that conceals a chicken leg at its core. But the restaurant's great specialty might be the appetizer erizo matico, marinated giant sea urchin, the powerfully nutty iodine smack nearly tamed by the flavors of citrus and finely minced onion. The erizo is delicious, crammed full of aphrodisiac nutrients, but really too rich to eat more than a few bites.
Dear Mr. Gold, I have been craving a chacarero since I stumbled across this — the best sandwich on Earth — next to Filene’s Basement in Chicago several years ago. Please tell me I can find this somewhere in Los Angeles so I can indulge. ... More »
Chili John's (chili) This is wonderful chili, dense and comforting, lean and hearty, with a cumin wallop and a subtle, smoky heat that creeps up on you like the first day of a Santa Ana wind, flavoring your breath for half a day even if you don't... More »
While the contributions of South America to world culture may include the magical realist novel, Che's groovy beret and Lambada: The Forbidden Dance, the continent's role in world cuisine has gone largely unremarked. Without South America, there... More »
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