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There's no better way to mop up a sauce made from fresh tomatoes, green peppers, onions, and the remnants of perfectly cooked chunks of tender lamb than with a piece of Taj's chewy onion kulcha, a bread baked on hot tandoor walls. Every dish here is unique, intensely aromatic, with a mixture of spices unlike any of its neighbors. Colors and textures vary from the odd, sweet, brilliantly red pickled potatoes served at the lunch buffet to the dense brown blanket of the mashed eggplant bharta, the soulful green gravy of buttery spinach and cheese saag paneer, the butter and cream-colored chicken korma studded with raisins and almonds, or the bright-pink, yogurt-infused, fall-off-the-bone tandoori chicken pieces. Taj's channa masala manages to be head-clearingly spicy and still intensely comforting. A buffet lunch, served daily, features Punjab-Bengali standbys; dinner is a la carte.
For once, the best is synonymous with the most. In the form of an $8.95 lunch buffet where you can fill and refill your plate with all the spice-redolent delicacies of India: a deliciously gooey sag paneer of spinach and homemade cheese; fragrant eggplant bharta; onion bhaji doused in cream and yogurt sauce; belly-warming channa masala; and creamy spiced peas and potatoes. There's the vegetable korma with cream, tomatoes, and raisins; three kinds of chicken; sweet pickled potatoes, coleslaw,... More »
London in the mid-1980s was a crash course in East Asian culture for a girl like me. The universe was Thatcherite; the city reeled under economic stagflation, an AIDS crisis, and a resurgence of neo-Nazi extremism. But there was one bright side:... More »
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