Description
If you had to shove Restaurant Mary in Santa Ana into a Mexican-food genre, you could call the food here Michoacán-style: The enchiladas are made in the tradition of the state (not fused into a roll with cheese, but rather folded as though a taco and stuffed with barely melted cotija), there’s a focus on quail and Cornish hen, and the kitchen even makes aporreadillo, an awesome breakfast dish that finds shredded steak cooked with chunks of scrambled eggs, then drenched in a light tomato sauce—think of it as chilaquiles for carnivors. But the emphasis here is on the pan-Mexican favorites—chiles rellenos, tacos, moles—prepared with extra care, knowing the customer base is Mexicans looking for something nicer than a taquería.