Description
Range manages to be both spare and cosseting, drawing Mission residents and tourists alike. Chef Phil West's California food, constructed along the lineage of Chez Panisse and Zuni Cafe, is capable of sure subtlety, filled with unexpected grace notes, and never boring. Ravioli may be stuffed with goat cheese and suave, slightly bitter sorrel; braised pork belly and pork sausage comes with pea shoots, pickled shallots, and a brothy vermouth-tinged sauce. Michelle Polzine's desserts read as simple and seasonal as they come, yet open up to reveal strange and subtle perfumes.
