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Range manages to be both spare and cosseting, drawing Mission residents and tourists alike. Chef Phil West's California food, constructed along the lineage of Chez Panisse and Zuni Cafe, is capable of sure subtlety, filled with unexpected grace notes, and never boring. Ravioli may be stuffed with goat cheese and suave, slightly bitter sorrel; braised pork belly and pork sausage comes with pea shoots, pickled shallots, and a brothy vermouth-tinged sauce. Michelle Polzine's desserts read as simple and seasonal as they come, yet open up to reveal strange and subtle perfumes.
The latest gossip, innuendo, and cold hard facts about the San Francisco food scene. The team behind Mission Rock Resort & Oyster Bar let us know they're opening the doors to the Mission Bay restaura... More »
San Francisco is one of the best places in the world to drink young wines, particularly those with attitude, from many different places. Sommeliers here are passionate and their wine lists reflect it.... More »
The other day I got an e-mail that has stuck with me. It definitely hurt my feelings, but has also got me to think. The subject line was "Happy New Year," and the writer went on to say how he used to ... More »
For someone who talks as much smack as I do, I rarely seem to get any hate mail. When it does arrive, it is often from someone I have dissed in print who has obviously changed his or her name and is writing under the guise of an outraged reader.... More »
You know you're falling in love with a chef when you yearn to see what he would do with an ingredient that has yet to appear on his menus. You've had three preparations of pork -- using ribs, shoulder, and chops -- different yet equally... More »
A great neighborhood restaurant doesn't reveal itself at the start, even if its opening day is drenched with positive press. It takes years for a restaurant to settle into itself and patiently, meal after meal, build a regular clientele. Four or five years down the road, once the ficklest of foodistas have moved on -- that's when a neighborhood restaurant's quality becomes clear. And so Range's owners, Phil and Cameron West, have proved their endurance. Phil's food, constructed along... More »
There are two kinds of pastry chefs in this town: the ones who make Meyer lemon ices and rustic fold-over crostati in Cal-Med style, and those who go outside-the-box Baroque with spruce essence and chocolate-dipped pork rinds. Range's pastry chef, Michelle Polzine, walks a steady line between them. On paper, her desserts look as straightforward as any upstairs offerings at Chez Panisse. On the plate, they open up to reveal strange and subtle perfumes, or juxtapositions that strike you as... More »
The inviting glow that tempts you into Range, fortuitously sited next to a small park, is a harbinger of the glow that will pervade you as you tuck into its inspired dishes. Range offers the apotheosis of intelligent comfort food, created by chef Phil West. Satisfying starters of creamy chicken liver mousse, sturdy whiskey-and-brown-sugar glazed pork ribs, or ethereal goat cheese and sorrel-stuffed ravioli are followed by intelligent takes on meat or fish, paired with inventive sides:... More »
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