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Rai Rai Ken is one of the cornerstones of the East Village's Little Tokyo, and if you remember the old premises, the newest incarnation will astonish you. While the old place had only a few seats along a sagging counter, the new one boasts several seating areas, including a nook in the rear that's perfect secluded dining. A few stylish menu items have been added, too, including bao-based sandwiches probably inspired by the success of David Chang's ssam. But Rai Rai Ken's forte remains unfussy ramen. In fact, the place is named after the Sapporo restaurant where Chinese lo mein (corrupted as "ramen") was first introduced to Japan. The only broths available are soy and seafood, but these are carefully concocted from a wild range of ingredients: One day, a turkey carcass was seen protruding from the stock pot, as apples bobbed around it. The noodles go down best with Japanese beer, but a sake list is also available.
Pork belly buns are almost a delicacy here, but in Asia, gua bao are the equivalent of hamburgers -- cheap, easy to make, and unequivocally delicious. I ate my fill of the street-food snack in Tai... More »
5. Hiyashi Chuka at Rai Rai Ken -- This mix-it-yourself assemblage of cold ramen and other cooling ingredients is a summer godsend, with a little spicy brown mustard to perk it up. Find apples, egg, c... More »
Pork buns, one of the new additions to Rai Rai Ken's menu. Hmmm, where have we seen those before? Without much fanfare, Little Tokyo old-timer Rai Rai Ken has moved into semi-luxurious new digs, jus... More »
Long-running ramen parlor Rai Rai Ken has moved a few storefronts east on the same side of East 10th Street. Anchor of the East Village's Little Tokyo Rai Rai Ken has picked up and moved east. The n... More »
Our long pork-belly winter has faded into the back-ground. Following the dictates of our foodie patriarchs, we've obediently sucked down hundredweights of lard, butter, and tallow, and generally treated our weary corpses as oleaginous dumping... More »
good for a quick intimate dinner
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