Description
Sharon Ardiana's second restaurant repeats much of the formula that made Gialina, her first, a cult pizzeria. Her crusts, which have no pretense of authentic Neapolitan or New York, are some of the lightest in town. The bottoms are always crisp and brown without charring, and the lip of the pie has inflated so quickly in the oven it can seem like an unbroken, ring-shaped air bubble. At Ragazza, pizza is just part of a varied, tapas like meal. "Want to get a salad with our 20-inch pie?" becomes "Let's get a salad, some roast squid, a couple of vegetables, and then a pizza to share." While Ragazza is more uneven than its Glen Park sister, when the kitchen is on, those sides and salads are just as accomplished as the restaurant's main dish.
