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Although it easily could be mistaken for a new-money, new-cuisine nightmare, the Queen City Grill is the real deal. They do things with old-world style here: The elegant bar and dining room feel as if they belong in some sturdy old city like Boston or New York, but the casual, laid-back feel is all West Coast. The Dungeness crab cakes and their tangy remoulade are the best version in town, and the filet mignon with peppercorn sauce is classic.
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