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This single-minded sandwich shop serves only one meat;porchetta, or Italian roast pork. The lush meat is garlicky and rosemary-scented. It's wonderful tucked into a ciabatta roll with a scattering of cracklings that are as crispy as potato chips. The place is tiny and sweet: blue and white tile, a few stools, and a counter where you can gaze upon the large hunks of burnished-skinned pig. Everything in the shop is cooked in one small Electrolux oven, which sits out in plain view. Besides the piggy, you can choose from a short list of sides. Stewed bitter greens are strewn with soft whole cloves of garlic. The roast potatoes are tossed in pork fat and little crunchy bits of pork.
Last week, we did a lot of reporting on restaurants operating in the dark, doing whatever they could to provide light and food to those who needed it. We checked in on our review restaurants, both o... More »
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