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Greenpoint, Sunset Park, and the East Village are dotted with Polish cafes, but none quite as good as this example. Rib-sticking soups are a specialty (several vegetarian ones among them), including four startlingly dissimilar takes on borscht, one of which comes with a giant ingot of fried pork, another with a scoop of potatoes to be dumped into its clear carmine depths. Entrees are groaningly large: there's a giant boneless pork chop that can be done several ways, and a hunter's stew (bigos) sporting sauerkraut, big chunks of meat, and smoky sausage that makes you feel like you've just slept all night in the woods next to a smoldering fire. Wash it all down with BYOB Polish beer from the Russian deli across the street.
As the gentrification of Greenpoint proceeds apace, who should be surprised that the best Polish restaurant this year is found in Bay Ridge, rather than the northwest corner of Brooklyn? Polonica--as with most of its Polish café brethren--is a postage-stamp of a place, with a handful of tables and a menu much larger than you'd expect in a café so small. Thrill to multiple forms of borscht, including zurek--a welter of meat, potatoes, boiled eggs, and sour cream.... More »
At 19, Bay Ridge's Polonica is no spring chicken, even among long-running Polish restaurants. In fact, in restaurant years, it's sliding into a comfortable middle age. But in a cuisine rarely celebrated for its range or poignancy, Polonica stands... More »
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