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Is it worth lining up on the hot sidewalk and waiting 30 minutes for Guatemalan fried chicken? We can't answer that question for you, but we sure enjoyed standing in the buzzing line, scoring bird, and perching upstairs surrounded by the logos of this Central American fast-food chain. The cut-price poultry is salty and tangy from its citrus marinade, the skin barely dusted and crisp, and most of the sides as bad as Colonel Sanders's-except for the pleasantly unsweet slaw and excellent red beans.
Apparently, the line stretching down the block from POLLO CAMPERO consisted of diners anxious for a shot at the fried chicken of this Guatemalan chain. I was there for the beans--juicy red nuggets in a rich broth dotted with onions, ground pork, and fingernail-sized swatches of ham, imparting a smoky and ungreasy flavor to the beans, beans good enough to be my beans of the year. More »
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