By now we're used to chocolate's Heart of Darkness narrative -- that it has to travel ever deeper up-jungle into some terra incognita of earthier, bitterer, single-estatier. Poco Dolce isn't afraid to move instead into the flavored realms of old-school chocolatiers like Lindt, but in a way that eschews overt sweetness and opts for modern flavors like Chinese five-spice and chile. Kathy Wiley's olive oil bar, the best of the Dogpatch chocolatier's new line, folds flowery-nosed California... More »
