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Named after the famous Athenian quarter, Ballard's Plaka is decorated like a family room set up for a contract-bridge tournament, packed with family photos, brightly colored wood tables, and hug-dispensing servers, most of whom share last names. If the space is tiny, the menu's herculean, with more than two dozen mezedes and salads and nine larger meat and pasta dishes—all forthright, solid, and often tasty. Order up a cluster of small plates—beets stewed with their greens, a feta pie, some taramosalata and hummus with pita—and you have a perfect Wednesday-night meal.
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