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When the owners of the venerable Vince's in Rainier Valley opened a second restaurant, they also updated their style. Not only is Pulcinella decorated à la Under the Tuscan Sun, with sponged golden walls and Italian memorabilia, it serves Neapolitan-style pizzas. The quickly baked, thin-crusted, floppy-centered pies have flooded the zone in Seattle, but Pulcinella's truly win Best of Genre, with airy crusts ringing the center, the thinnest layer of cheese, the brightest tomato sauce. Best yet, being a neighborhood place far south of the hipster zones, Pulcinella serves the pies free of pomp.
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