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CLOSED. If you have any doubts about Pizza Volante's philosophy, the servers clear things up in black and white on the back of their T-shirts, which demand, in capital letters, "EAT MOZZARELLA." It's best not to argue with that philosophy - especially when the results are face-meltingly delicious. The creamy white stuff is front and center in the best dishes. There's a savory side note in the "Bianca" pizza, where bufala mozzarella is paired with tart fontina cheese, Chenel goat cheese, arugula, and thyme (for $14). Or check out the fresh local mozzarella that's the main attraction in an eye-poppingly fresh Caprese salad with organic tomatoes, unfiltered oil, and balsamic vinegar ($9). Tucked into a tight sunlit space in Wynwood and lined with long communal tables, Volante offers a laid-back vibe to go with first-class gourmet pizza. If you're not in the mood for a pie, Volante also prepares - and delivers - nightly specials such as organic chicken cacciatore with broccoli rabe for $10 and braised short ribs with potato gnocchi for $12. Keep your eye on the dairy draw, though. There's also a fresh mozzarella bar - which boasts the aforementioned bufala and a variety from Campagna, Italy - for $12. Those T-shirts don't lie.
Pizza Volante, what was left of Jonathan Eismann's mini-restaurant empire in the Design District, has shut its doors. Less than two years after opening, the small pizza place on North Miami Avenue fol... More »
We've hardly had time to digest the news that Jonathan Eismann's Pacific Time is no more, and that a second Q American Barbecue won't be opening in South Beach. Now the disassembly of his Design Distr... More »
At last year's end, this page trumpeted the arrival of Miami to the big league of American food cities. As soon as we joined that elite club, however, the economic crash hit home and lavish restaurant budgets dried faster than pig belly in a... More »
This was the year Miami finally joined the big league of American food cities. A flurry of activity burst across our local restaurant world, delivering bistros, cafés, star-chef driven establishments, humble neighborhood hideaways, midscale... More »
Jonathan Eismann evidently took the famous exhortation "Go West, young man!" to mean the west side of Miami's Design District (plus he waited until he wasn't all that young). Eismann charged into the fledgling neighborhood with his flagship Pacific Time and has recently added the new duo of Q and Fin. But perhaps his most heralded pioneering effort came when PizzaVolante led the parade of gourmet pizza joints that ended up settling in this town. The look is industrial cool, with... More »
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