Description
Pitfire smells like a barbecue pit, a Girl Scout campsite, a hamburger stand - anything but what it is, which is a franchise-ready pizzeria. But the pies, given a slow, two-day rise and fired on the floor of a ceramic oven, are superb examples of the breed, puffy in the Neapolitan manner and tinged with smoke, fresh mozzarella browned at its top like a toasted marshmallow, fennel sausage and roast pumpkin and other high-quality ingredients blackened and sizzlng and crisp. You have had better pizza than this - Casa Bianca comes to mind - and the guy who came up with the recipes probably didn't apprentice in Naples. I have heard that the crust was racier in the beginning, when it was grilled in the manner of Rhode Island's Il Forno instead of baked. Still, this is the kind of neighborhood pizzeria we should all have in our neighborhoods, a testament to the goodness of flame.
