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It's not often you can use the words Key Largo and fine dining in the same sentence without gagging. In fact there's only one occasion in which those words belong together -- when you're talking about Pilot House. This long-time Keys dive, beneficiary of a seven-figure renovation in 2004, is the lone outpost of serious dining in an ocean of mediocre fish sandwiches and fried shrimp platters. The modestly upscale restaurant serves a range of well-prepared dishes, including a garlicky caesar salad, poached salmon with a creamy vegetable ragout, and a thick "cowboy" steak topped with molten blue cheese crowned with crisp onion strings. And at the waterfront tiki bar, for years a local fave, you can get the best hamburger and fish tacos in the Keys.
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