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It's not often you can use the words Key Largo and fine dining in the same sentence without gagging. In fact there's only one occasion in which those words belong together -- when you're talking about Pilot House. This long-time Keys dive, beneficiary of a seven-figure renovation in 2004, is the lone outpost of serious dining in an ocean of mediocre fish sandwiches and fried shrimp platters. The modestly upscale restaurant serves a range of well-prepared dishes, including a garlicky caesar salad, poached salmon with a creamy vegetable ragout, and a thick "cowboy" steak topped with molten blue cheese crowned with crisp onion strings. And at the waterfront tiki bar, for years a local fave, you can get the best hamburger and fish tacos in the Keys.
Editor's note: Periodically we will publish capsule reviews like those below in addition to our weekly full reviews. This installment, dedicated to the Florida Keys, was written by Bill Citara. More than 530 capsule reviews of local restaurants... More »
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