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After spending the past several years cooking for other people, Doug Flicker, the chef-partner of the late, lamented Auriga is now cooking at his own wee little 36-table restaurant. Piccolo presents a dining style new to the Twin Cities of a mini-entrée menu we've been hard-pressed to name: Coursed dining? Fractional eating? Tasting plates? Eh, we'll keep working on it. Until then, we do know what the concept does for chefs (allows them to stretch their creative muscles) and diners (experience as much of that excellence as possible). For about $10 a pop, diners receive the sorts of plates that chefs might whip up for themselves after a long day's work (scrambled eggs with pickled pig's feet and truffle butter; gnocchi with white beans, robiola cheese, and house-cured guanciale) or when they're in a fanatic, R&D, recipe-tinkering mode (roast chicken re-imagined for modern times with the help of "meat glue" and a sous vide machine). By the time you make your way to dessert-malted panna cotta with figs and chocolate-milk foam, for example - you'll find yourself sated without feeling stuffed. Good things come in small packages, remember?
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The food at Piccolo is nearly flawless. There is no question that Doug Flicker and his staff create glorious dishes of the kind that make other chefs swoon (just ask Anthony Bourdain). Every plate is a playful mix of new flavors and unexpected textures, but always with one element that reaches into the diner's memory and extracts some warmly remembered taste. The only consistent complaint we've heard about Piccolo is that it's small. Everything is small. The charming room is tiny, and the... More »
The problem here isn't that the Twin Cities lack first-rate restaurants, it's that there are only so many special meals one can go out for each year. And there's something a little bittersweet about indulging in just one of these restaurants' top-notch appetizers, entrées, and desserts and then leaving the rest of the menu uninvestigated. But petite, cozy Piccolo has structured its meals so diners get to taste a wider array of chef-owner Doug Flicker's creations. The Piccolo menu is... More »
Doug Flicker is back! After spending the past several years cooking for other people, the chef-partner of the late, lamented Auriga is now cooking at his own wee little 36-table restaurant. Piccolo presents a dining style new to the area, a mini-entrée menu we've been hard-pressed to name: Coursed dining? Fractional eating? Tasting plates? Eh, we'll keep working on it. Until then, we do know what the concept does for chefs (allows them to stretch their creative muscles) and diners... More »
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