Description
The category of anticuchos, traditionally skewers of grilled, marinated beef heart sold as street food in Lima, has been expanded to include skewered sweet potatoes with honey, salmon with miso, and even cherry tomatoes with burrata and the first fresh huacatay, black mint, I have ever seen outside Peru, although the original corazón is breathtakingly good. I've never had a better version of carapulcra, the freeze-dried potato stew, a standard of Inca cooking that may have been the first recorded instance of molecular cuisine, which tends toward a certain packing-peanut consistency but here was tender, a little chewy and full of flavor, like the potato equivalent of salt cod. And the seco de pato may have been made with duck confit, but the beery, herb-infused rice it came on tasted as if it had come from the kitchen of a Chiclayo grandmother.
