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Unlike some of the other entrants in the luxe-lonchera war, this Argentine truck has an impeccable pedigree: Owner/cook Jose Piaggio was the proprietor of a couple of steakhouses in Brea and Brazil before making his restaurant mobile. Expert meat-preparing is in the man's veins, and Piaggio Gourmet On Wheels is a mini-testament to his country's obsession with beef: freshly made chorizo with a gentle snap, redolent of cinnamon; skirt steak grilled to an obsidian gleam on the outside, ruddy beauty inside, all enlivened with a chimmichurri heavier on the parsley than garlic; a lomito torta that makes any American steak hoagie seem as hefty as tissue. Piaggio plays around with those cuts in tacos, burritos, quesadillas-any vessel he can get his meaty (pardon the pun-Piaggio is an Andes of a man) hands on.
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