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A few years ago great Chinatown Vietnamese all but disappeared. Now Viet restaurants are springing up in unexpected places like Bath Beach, where the patrons run from Russian immigrants to Italian homies to Chinese Brooklynites looking for exotic fare. As the name implies, the noodle soups called pho are the heart of the menu.
A decade ago, Vietnamese cafés were springing up everywhere in Manhattan's Chinatown, offering over-rice meals cheaper than anyone else's. The delicate charcoal-grilled pork chops, lemongrass chicken, and steaming bowls of pho became an obsession... More »
Like ramen, great pho depends on a wonderful broth, in this case one based on beef scraps and bones long-boiled, then perfectly clarified at PHO TAY HO. It also depends on split-second timing as thin-shaved beef of diverse sorts (including tendon, muscle, eye of round, tripe, etc.) is deposited and begins to cook as the soup arrives at the table. Pick your pho--Vietnam's national dish, commonly enjoyed in market stalls--from a list of 20 types, served alongside sprouts and fresh mint... More »
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