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Owned by a Chinese Vietnamese family, Pho Phu Quoc (PPQ) has spawned a restaurant chain stretching across the western half of San Francisco. The original's still the best source for Southern-style Vietnamese pho perfumed with anise and roasted shallots and com dia (rice plates with grilled pork or shredded pork skin, vegetables, and nuoc cham). Most of the big parties at this Outer Sunset restaurant are there for platters of grilled meats with herbs, vegetables, and rice-noodle cakes (bánh hỏi)-a meal that is as much about the activity of plucking, layering, and wrapping of rice-paper bundles as it is about eating.
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