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Replacing a notorious red-sauced Italian place with a gondola on the roof, Philippu faithfully renders the full canon on Philippine cuisine, including kare-kare (a peanutty oxtail stew), pinkabet (salad dressed with fermented shrimp paste), and, the national dish, chicken adobo, originally inspired by a Mexican recipe of the same name. However, the menu emphasizes those dishes that a common heritage of Spanish colonialism around the globe. For example, the crispy pork belly called lechon kawali is a dead ringer for Dominican chicharron de cerdo, in an attempt to make the new, extensively windowed restaurant a real neighborhood spot.
Anyone who propelled at night up Ravenswood's main drag of 21st Street would have seen it: a life-size gondola outlined in Christmas lights perched atop Rizzo's Italian Village. A shadowy figure stood upright in the boat, a broad-brimmed hat... More »
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