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One of many Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurants in the city, Perry Street may be the best;an austere temple of haute cuisine that dispenses with fussy squiggles of color and useless extra ingredients. The wonderful lunch special includes any two dishes from a menu that doesn't distinguish between apps and entrees, and a bonus dessert from a commendably short list. We loved the braised chicken slicked with lemon-pepper sauce, hulking Gulf shrimp in lemongrass broth with ramen noodles, and (dinner only) black sea bass in truffled potato broth.
Spring is ripe with surprises (80 degrees, 40 degrees, you know the drill). This week, our professional eaters explored two curveball restaurants and were pleasantly delighted--though not equally--by... More »
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