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The word Tuscan is been thrown around a lot;next to Atkins, it's probably the most abused culinary term. But Pepolino has fair claim to actually being a Tuscan restaurant, since the proprietors cut their eyeteeth at Florence's renowned Cibreo, and certain key dishes reflect it. Instead of butter or olive oil you get a spreadable tomato flan flavored with basil, and nothing in town quite matches the perfection of the cheese and spinach ravioli, glossed with butter and walnuts; or tagliata, a sliced steak served with greenery; or inzimino, a dense calamari sludge not for the squeamish.
As we near Father's Day, the question on your lips should be W.W.D.W.: What Would Dad Want? Nothing too culinarily challenging, so you should forgo places with pheasant fritters and gruntfish carpaccio, and select instead a place with reassuring,... More »
Can the word "rustic" be applied to an establishment just steps south of Canal Street? To a townhouse squeezed between an Irish bar and a plumbing supply store, with a sidewalk café shaded by a lone tree, where Hudson River breezes mingle with... More »
When the partners at PEPOLINO finished up their stint at Florence's renowned Il Cibreo and emigrated to the U.S., they took a couple of signature dishes with them. Inzimeno, associated with the Tuscan town of Torre del Lago, begins with squid rings, escarole, and spinach, then cooks them down to a dark green sludge. The appearance: off-putting. The flavor: delightful. More »
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