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Though the menu is extensive, stick with the massive, hand held-time-warp burritos at Pepe's. The chile relleno version spurts with melted cheese and grease; red-chili beef and green-chili pork possess the type of saltiness that can have the same effect as MSG has, a gentle buzz you can feel to your fingertips. Pepe's is also famous for its massive California burrito and breakfast burritos, and what better time to reacquaint yourself with machaca, that strange cut Mexican-American dives interpret as little more than shredded beef and bell pepper?
Of all the beats of journalism, food writers are probably the most notoriously flowery with their prose, their love of metaphors, similes and rampant exaggerations. But please believe that I’m being literal when I say the California burrito at... More »
The California burrito is a staple of San Diego and occasionally pops up in Orange County's Mexican restaurants, usually the kind patronized by non-Mexicans. The great exception is Pepe's, the Mexican-American chain at which chile Colorado and green pork rules and horchata is unheard of. But the star is the California burrito, an item so special it's not even listed on the menu. It's everything a true burrito (by which I mean, it's barely a Mexican dish) should be:... More »
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