Description
From a tiny kitchen located deep within an equally small and dark Bowery restaurant, chef Richard Kuo builds elegant, colorful small plates that often whisper of faraway places at Pearl and Ash. Neighborhood locals and visiting tourists dig into slices of scallops dusted with berbere, the African spice mixture, and served with fennel and the edible bulb of the lily flower, and sweet, raw shrimp in a
slightly smoky lime yogurt. Kuo's Japanese meatballs -- miso-seasoned pork and veal mounds served in a bonito-flaked broth -- are simple and satisfying and the exceptional skate served with cauliflower puree and leek ringlets is a can't miss. The wine list, created by Palace Hotel wine director Patrick Cappiello, is serious business and offers an unexpectedly huge selection from Burgundy and Bordeaux. The food is more delicate than the noisy, dark space, but service is comfortable and warm, even when the restaurant gets busy, making Pearl & Ash an ideal place to share small plates over a glass of wine. --Tejal Rao
