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Pauline's Pizza, the little yellow pizzeria on Valencia that still feels hidden away from the Mission's main restaurant strip, is more than a quarter-century old now. And yet its pies, with their crackly crusts and seasonal toppings, resemble anything you'll find at Pizzeria Delfina or Gialina. Owners Sidney Weinstein and Randy Nathan still grow most of the vegetables they use in their salads and pizzas on their farms (their other customers include a number of four-star restaurants). Pies are served family-style here and range from the straightforward to baroque daily specials. A good sense of culinary balance, not to mention a good crust and good sauce, keeps everything reliably delicious.
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The history of few culinary trends can be recounted as precisely as that of California pizza. In 1980, Alice Waters, inspired by her travels in Italy and meals at Tommaso's, made a wood-burning pizza oven the centerpiece of Chez Panisse's new... More »
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