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Under the elevated D train, Pastorale is one of the more stranger-friendly formal joints in Brighton Beach-decorated with 18th-century-style French tapestries of sylvan scenes, and slinging pan-Soviet cuisine as banquetteers dance to the throbbing oratorio of Saint Casio. The cold platter of smoked and pickled fish is the compulsory starter, but don't miss the excellent red borscht. Among main courses, chicken tabaka and chicken Kiev are bugdet wise choices; for a few dollars more there's "midnight in Moscow," a huge pork cutlet topped with plum sauce.
Robert Sietsema: It would be easy enough to send you to B&H for a bowl of excellent beet borscht, but why not make the trek to Pastorale in Brighton Beach for their superior version? Diced beets vie with other veggies in the purple broth, with the overweening sweetness cut by the cloud of rich sour cream that towers above the potage. Sarah DiGregorio: If you want a fantastic green-sorrel borscht, go across the street to Cafe Glechik--but it's Cafe Paris for the ultimate Ukrainian beet borscht. R... More »
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