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Riffing on the wine-bar craze, this closet of a space in the meat district offers topped toasts styled "bruschetta francaise" and pressed sandwiches that run from the expected (ham and Gruyere) to the unexpected (duck rillettes and capers). The menu rounds out with crepes, salads, and combination plates of cheese and charcuterie. Though on the expensive side, everything is typically tasty and well prepared, especially a sprightly salad of seared scallops and shaved fennel and a tartine smothered in Parmesan and garlic mayonnaise. The pre fixe brunch, with unlimited champagne, is a decent deal, especially if you can score a table in the delightful garden.
It took some bravery, but PARADOU has thrown down the gauntlet to challenge the 30-odd Italian wine bars in Gotham by mounting a list composed entirely of French wines and reinterpreting the panini in Gallic terms. In fine weather, the rear garden is the most hopping spot in Manhattan's meat market. More »
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