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Paquito's is the kind of place where eclectic surroundings - hot-pink ponchos used as tablecloths, walls the color of lime sorbet, and quirky knickknacks galore - truly reflect the menu. Warm, fresh tortilla chips with chunky cilantro-spiked salsa are complimentary, and other starters include ceviche with jalapeños and a Mexican pizza topped with black olives, mushrooms, green peppers, and melted cheese. Entrées featuring mole verde - green tomatillos, chilies, epasote, parsley, and pumpkin seeds poured over chicken, beef, or pork - are family recipes sprinkled with abuelita's love. Authentic menu items such as burritos and tacos are all tasty and massive, and fajitas come in varieties like chicken sautéed in garlic butter, chopped center-cut pork chops, and fresh shrimp basking in a creamy sauce studded with poblano peppers and onions. If you crave something north of the boarder, Paquito's also offers pretty decent burgers. Straddling the border? There are burgers with guacamole. Or if you want to go tubing down the Rio Grande with a refreshing drink in hand, frozen margaritas from strawberry to banana are available.
I love the steak tacos al carbon. WOW!
You could live in North Miami for years and never notice it: From the outside, the building -- tucked in the corner of a nondescript shopping center -- looks more like an orthodontist's office than the setting for a lively Mexican eatery. But wait till you get inside. On any given Friday, patrons of the loud, colorful, delightfully gaudy joint consume tacos the way tailgaters slam down barbecue. Two stuffed soft or crisp morsels come with beef, chicken, pork, steak, or shrimp on... More »
At first glance, you might think a Technicolor piñata had exploded here. Tables hide their tops in throbbing shades of violet and orange, vibrant streamers flirt from the ceiling, and landscapes in the colors of a Frida Kahlo painting cram just about every inch of available wall space. But what will really send you into orbit are Paquito's fajitas. For $15, you receive a fragrant, sizzling platter of meat -- beef, chicken, pork, shrimp, or fish -- with a substantial helping of... More »
It isn't just the amazing albondiguitas (spicy meatballs in vegetable stock) or the fantastic fajitas that have earned Paquito's this award three times already. The food is excellent and the service impeccable. What gives this place so much appeal is the authentic Mexican atmosphere. Walk inside and you're transported to a hacienda where Yucatan hospitality offers a wonderful night of dining and inspecting the Mexican folk art blanketing the walls. If you're with friends, though, don't get... More »
The festively decorated Paquito's, its rooms festooned with a combination of folksy and kitschy decorations, dishes up genuine Mexican cooking the likes of which you'd find in a good fonda south of the border. Traditional fare ranges from a sopa de tortilla, sopes (small round cornmeal discs topped with refried beans and shredded cheese, served as starters), the classic chocolately rich mole poblano with chicken, tamales, and a real stick-to-your-ribs, homestyle dish, chilaquiles (pieces of... More »
One of our most beloved Mexican eateries, this hacienda frequently scores points with us for individual items, namely the smokin' hot fajitas. But you really can't go astray with any of the homestyle fare, whether you order nachos or ceviche or albondiguitas (meatballs). Throw in some tasty house specialties, like the zesty chicken nuggets coated with flour and jalapeño pepper juice; a strolling mariachi band that doesn't overstay its welcome; and kitschy surroundings that include examples of ev... More »
"I know what good home-style Mexican food is supposed to be about," a friend of mine told me recently. "I've just never had it." That's understandable: She lives in Miami. Oh sure, we've got a couple of long-standing joints (Paquito's in North... More »
The start of the new year is a season as much for reflection as for anticipation. Past failures especially take on life all over again, a reincarnation that may prove uncomfortable for some. But it is this assessment, painful though it may be,... More »
Writing about food is a lot like writing about fashion: You know a new trend is going to be unveiled in the fall, but you can't always predict what it will be. As an observer, you can comment on it, note its good points and bad. As a consumer,... More »
I don't believe I'm sticking my neck too far into the guillotine by contending that children don't often make good restaurant critics. Their priorities aren't culinary, and their diet reflects that. The ritualized service and setting are too... More »
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