Pappas Brothers Steakhouse

Pappas violates the order of things: The onion rings, big as brake drums, are stacked into a tower; the shrimp in the shrimp rémoulade could easily serve as stand-ins for the digits that clasped Fay Wray. Tomato in the beefsteak and onion salad? Big as a softball. And it’s split in half. (Slices are for sissies.) Don’t worry, though; there are plenty of sharp knives on the tables. But the real star here is steer stuff. Great pieces rest in an on-premise temperature-controlled chamber, where the cuts dry age for up to three weeks. Rosy featured cuts with wavering fat tributaries are aligned with military precision in the polished refrigerated case at the entrance. Stares from steaks can be seductive. Who cares if the cheapest cut rings in at $30? Dry-aged steak flavors are concentrated, even nutty. And with minimal seasoning (butter, kosher salt, pepper) after a 1,600-plus degree broil, the intense beef flavors break through recklessly. Juices run. Tenderness reigns. Dopamine levels explode. Er, you can get fish, too, we suppose. Service is impeccable, right down to the valets. When your car is returned, they strip the tag from your keys and pull the ticket stub from your dash. There’s plenty of meat to this matter. Brother.

• Cuisine(s): Fine Dining, Seafood, Steak House, Steakhouse

  Hours: Mon-Thu 5pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 5pm-11pm

• Attire: Business Casual

  Features: Takeout, Private Party, Catering, Banquet Facilities, Wheelchair Accessible, Business Dining, Fireplace

• Entertainment: Live Entertainment

  Reservations: Accepted