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Papaye is the most ready-for-primetime Ghanaian restaurant in town, with a bright airy dining room right on Bronx's Grand Concourse. Having nothing whatsoever to do with fruit, the name means "Doing Good." Color photos behind the order counter at the rear of the restaurant (no waiter service) will help you select the most suitable meal, which is likely to include a mash and soup, along with meat, chicken, or fish. Thrill to the pungent stockfish and peanut flavors, and natural okra-like sliminess of many of the relishes, and ask for either red or black "shito" if you want your meal to be extra hot. Best beginner's choice? No. 1: emotuo and peanut butter soup. Grab bits of the mashed rice with your right hand and dip it into the soup, then pick up the beef bones and gnaw.
Twenty years ago, the typical West African restaurant in the city was a small, badly lit room with mismatched furniture, and little in the way of décor besides a tribal mask or two. The shades were often pulled down tight, and the gates barely... More »
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